French Polynesia is almost like it is in France… but it’s not like it is in France.
What does that mean?
Technically, French Polynesia is France, but it has its own culture and customs. Polynesians speak French, but also Marquesan (Marquesas), Pomutu (Tuamotus), Tahitian, Mangarevan (Gambier), and four separate dialects in the Australes island. You can find most of the goods you get in Europe, the difference is they are more expensive and it might take longer to receive them. This is due to the isolated geographic position of French Polynesia (just in case you’ve forgotten the days at sea it took to get here!), and Polynesian import taxes.
French Polynesians are usually friendly and helpful; the farther away from Tahiti the truer that is, but, as the number of cruising boats has drastically augmented after the Covid years, there are some issues in certain places regarding particular topics. As someone cruising French Polynesia right now (and for the last 3 years), here are 7 relevant insights and tips for others who are planning to visit.
1. Observe supply ship etiquette
The freighter that resupplies the islands and atolls only comes so often; from two ships a week, down to one per month, every variation is possible depending on the size of the population. As a result, the “swarm of locust behaviour” in shops when the freighter does come is understandably not welcomed by locals.
There are multiple ways to order provisions online, and have your food, fruits, vegetables etc. delivered by the supply ship via a courier in Tahiti. The truth is you have a better choice of products online and the extra price, depending on the service provider, is more than acceptable.
The resupply ship schedules can be found on the government Revatua website. Fenua Livraison, SOS Couriers, Sipac and Tahiti Crew are among the courier companies offering resupply services. It is also possible to order at Carrefour online.
2. Air Tahiti have freight services
You can order parts, food, etc in Tahiti, and have the vendor deliver the goods to the Air Tahiti freight office for a fee. They then transport it, and all you need as a delivery address is:
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Your name
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LOCAL telephone number
Transportation with Air Tahiti is a reliable, fast and not too expensive way to get goods if you are in a hurry (and if they have them in Tahiti of course!).
3. Behave respectfully
In the Marquesas you greet people by saying “Kao Ha”
In the Tuamotus and Society Islands it’s “Ia orana”
“Bonjour” and “Merci” all over French Polynesia.
It really works, and they will answer and smile at you in return. Just try!
Here are a few other things to consider:
- Anchoring too close to shore is not always appreciated by the locals, as some consider the shoal adjacent to their land as theirs
- Adhere to the “no wake rules”, even if they are not explicitly published, as you do in your own country
- Attaching the dinghy at the dock ladder or tilting the motor up is not really considerate towards the other users
- Even if the locals won’t comment about it, walking through the village in minimalistic clothing, topless men and ladies in bikinis, might hurt their feelings as they are kind of prude
The DEPAM (Department of Polynesian Maritime Affairs) has published anchoring zones. As of June 2026, mooring ball fields are being installed in the Society Islands. You can consult their website for detailed information.
Be aware there is a trend, especially in the Society Islands, which is not cruiser friendly. It is starting to take place in Fakarava and Nuku Hiva, and while it might be a minority, they are getting louder.
4. Fuel management
Diesel and unleaded gasoline are also brought in by the freighter. If for some reason the freighter does not show up (weather or mechanical breakdown), the situation tends to get tense rapidly. Locals need diesel for the electrical power plant in each island or atoll, as well as fuel for local fishing boats, pickup trucks, etc.
It is a good idea to manage one’s own fuel situation accordingly.
5. Navigating passes and inside the atolls in the Tuamotu’s
A lot has been written about this topic, so briefly:
The official SHOM tables and Guestimator are good sources of tidal information to start with. The local dive shops can also tell you a lot, as they dive in those spots almost every day. Be aware that if there has been a couple of days with high wave action, the atolls fill up, and you may experience only outgoing current.
Arriving during the day, 30 minutes before the published slack tide, is a good plan. Usually, the middle of the pass gets the strongest current, so keep this in mind.
The use of satellite pictures is a must as in some atolls the depth indications on the Navionics maps are inaccurate. Make sure you use max zoom, as some small but nasty bommies are only visible in the lower zooms.
6. VHF communications
In the age of social media and Starlink coverage, we observe that the use of VHF Channel 16 is partially neglected.
Think about how to contact that only other visible yacht in that wonderful remote lagoon… No cell phone service available and it might be time consuming to find it on social media. Or what if the JRCC has a safety security call to all ships in your vicinity?
VHF CH 16 is still a quick and effective way to contact other boats, even at anchor, and why not take that handheld radio for that wonderful kayak or dinghy exploration tour as well?
7. Search and rescue
If you need assistance, these are the contact details for the local search and rescue service:
JRCC Tahiti
- VHF Channel 16 (Not yet completely implemented in the Marquesas)
- Whatsapp +689 87 75 75 47
- Email jrcc.tahiti@mer.gouv.fr
Maururu (thank you) and enjoy your stay in French Polynesia!
By Gerald Bassin
Gerald retired from the fast travels across the world as a long haul pilot and has been slowly sailing the Polynesian waters aboard a 53 ft sailing boat with his wife since 2023. The initial plan was to sail around the world, but they decided to stay there and discover more.
